Horseshoe ridge circular walk 9 miles - Brecon Beacons

 I've got a real backlog of walks to post up as I've done so many this year that I want to share. This is a walk I've done twice now, right in the heart of the Brecon Beacons. It is long and there are some steep climbs but it's totally worth it! I would save it for a day with reasonable weather though. It takes in all 4 summits - Corn Du, Pen y Fan, Cribyn and Fan y Big.

The first time I attempted this walk in February, I took two of my friends Annie and Becky on a microadventure as they don't normally hike. They were really excited about it. Unfortunately, the weather was pretty crap - no rain but it was extremely foggy and windy and cold. This meant my navigating was a bit suboptimal and we ended up on what I thought was the correct path, which was actually a path along the side of the mountain walking very close to the edge with quite a drop. I've done lots of rock climbing and treacherous hill walks, so the height didn't phase me but I didn't anticipate it may really phase them!

Here is us setting off - they look excited and happy.

A few hours later....substantially colder, ankles and legs killing us from ridge walking the side of the mountain and Annie and Becky totally demoralised from the trauma of the climb up!

Annie started really freaking out and I mean REALLY freaking out. They both slowed right down and the terrain was pretty poor at this point, so I felt a bit conflicted. I didn't want to just turn around and go back although I did consider it. Annie was adamant she wanted to continue but clearly wasn't holding up well and had just discovered a phobia for heights. The next 2 miles felt like a long slog. I kept saying "we're only about 1.5 miles from Corn Du, we're almost there" but because they were moving so slow, it felt like were were covering ground at a snail pace...and I'm sure they ended up feeling like I have on walks - "she's lost, we have no idea WHERE we are, what is she on about?!"

Oh ye of little faith, so we clambered up the side of the mountain and waded through snow and ice and lo and behold, arrived on the main track to Corn Du and were surrounded by other [more sensible] walkers and tourists. The girls were pleased and relieved. Trouble is, they'd gone so slow and light had started to fade by 3pm that we weren't able to make it to Cribyn or Fan y Big and part of me was getting a bit tetchy that we may well get lost as the mist was so thick and I was navigating us down a track I'd never walked before. Luckily, we made it down by half past 4 and although aching and battered by the elements, felt a real sense of achievement!

I resolved to do the proper walk again and arranged to do it as my birthday get together. This time, I took my friend Jayne who is a hardy rock climber and not easily phased by anything and jumps at any challenge I throw at her. We were blessed with good weather and what a difference this made with the views!
Without being surrounded by thick rolling mist obscuring the landscape, we were able to easily identify the path we needed to be on. So we climbed up the steep start just next to the Neuadd Reservoir and carried on ascending to the ridge. From here, the walk is pretty easy as you're just walking the ridge all the way along to Corn Du and the views are spectacular in every direction.
Here is a photo looking back on the Neuadd Reservoir after the initial steep climb to the top of the track.

Here we are looking back on the path as we walk along the ridge towards Corn Du. Nicely illuminated by the winter sunshine! We were so lucky (it was bloody cold though). Investing in a new Rab down jacket for my birthday was a wise move.
I love this photo of me and Dex. Taking a moment to appreciate the views as we get closer to Corn Du.



We stopped for a green tea and ginger biscuit break and Dexter decided he should be the first one to eat!!! Cheeky.

All in all, this is a great walk to do. Set off early and take a packed lunch. We had lunch on top of Pen y Fan and then carried on to Cribyn - which looked extremely steep from the bottom so I was kind of dreading going up but I found it fine - Jayne was struggling but she'd been to some body pump class the night before which in hindsight probably wasn't the best move.

Here's a nice shot Jayne took on her phone of us starting to descend with the ascent to Cribyn in the background.
I hadn't fallen over yet and if you're familiar with my walks, you'll know I'm prone to taking a tumble and this walk wasn't without that occurrence. As we started to come down off Cribyn and head towards Fan y Big, I slipped and it was so steep and muddy I must have kept sliding down for about 10 metres! Luckily, I was hyper vigilant that the beagle could make a break for it so kept a real tight hold on Dexter, although I'm sure he was wondering why I suddenly increased the speed and he was legging it down the side of the mountain. After Jayne stopped laughing, she managed to retrieve my trekking pole and help me up, although my brand new Rab jacket was covered in mud. Ah well, at least I now looked the part! (and it cleaned off pretty easily at home)

We made a slight navigational error at the end so we didn't quite summit Fan y Big although we got pretty close! It's a lovely view walking back down this valley towards the Neuadd Reservoir and a nice easy track underfoot as well.

Here I am at the bottom, covered in mud after sliding down Cribyn.
All in all, an awesome walk and one I'll still have to do again as I haven't made it to the summit of Fan y Big! Took us about 6 hours and we set a leisurely pace and stopped for a lengthy lunch and a few snack and tea breaks as well. Definitely one to add to your to-do list if you're in the area! I'd never go up Pen y Fan on the traditional "motorway" route now as it's just so boring and full of swathes of people. This route is still much quieter and gives you a better perspective on the mountains (not to mention better views all round).

Comments

  1. Sounds like a great route and more interesting than the motorway as you say!

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